Why? Wye, thats Why!!!!!!!

Woooh, check this out a blog thats about 2 weeks apart from the last update, dont expect this to much in the future!!!


So yea, its a rainy day and not too much else to do. So here I am where I started...... back in Golden Bay. Let me tell you how I got here.


Myself and Zef set off on a wee road trip, after a long and sad goodbye to Wanaka we finally leave the winter behind us and go sun searching. But first things first you cant start a good road trip without an awsome climbing venue to get too. And so just south of Queenstown lies Wye Creek. Truly awsome!!


Firstly you must tackle the walk in, an hour of windy upward dirt track then escalating into a rugged forrest track following a large pipeline. To then cross the creek you must cruise along a dodgey looking pipeline bridge which cuts through the contour of the creek and then eventually leaves you at the base of the main cliff.


Super impressive lines usually containing an average of a 2 stars going up at on average around 25metres. Ace!


However the day was the 13th and misfortune took its toll. The platform to walk along the crag is fairly steep and you really wouldnt want to drop anything like a bag with the car keys in down into the abyss below. Oops we did! Luckily it got caught in the thick tussick not too far down, so I took on the retrieval mission and return the bag to a secure locations. Its not over yet....
We done some nice cruisey lines and then finished on a real sweet super long 17 grade route, I thought the guide said it was 25m's long but in fact it said 28. A slight problem for the abseil, espesicailly after you realise your rope is only 46m's long in total. Luckily I pulled off some Tom Cruise style mission impossibe 2 moves and sorted the situation....... Always an epic with Quick Thinking Tom......Just makes it all slightly more memorable and fun.

So after 2 days of cragging, we make our way down south, to some familiar places from my last tour down but also visiting some new places. We arrive at Waipapa point, where a lighthouse on the edge of the island is a haven for sealions, and camera trigger happy tourists. On to various other points of interest (please refer to nicandtom.blogspot.com/road tripping for more details hahaha) and up too nugget point which is a super cool destination on the coast, you walk to another light house on the edge of a cliff to get a view of nugget shaped rocks pertruding out of rough oceans below. We also checked out a real cool waterfall, namely McClean Falls, whiched housed a small trek through the 'rainforest' and leads you to a reallly impressive dump of water spewing out from above......
And so we cruised up the East coast through Dunedin and Christchurch and eventually arriving at Golden Bay, my summer destination, Hangdog.... Brilliant!
Not sure if iv told some of you guys but I applied to run the camp ground as they were looking for new owners but applied just slightly too late, bummer, but all is not lost. After having a chat with the owner I have managed to score a job as Public relations Manager (hahaha just trying to come up with a fancy name for my new role) basically im the guy who answers peoples questions about the area and doing a little bit of guiding and teaching on the side with probably a bit of maintainanc around the camp too...... I am so stoked, I no longer pay camp fees and still get heaps of Climbing time. Cant ask for more really......
Untill the next time my good friends
much love
Tom

xReminiscing Crib Times.

One of the many impressive lines at Wye Creek, 'Dream Thing' 21

This looks like a good clib to have an epic on....

The pipeline bridge

Wye creek, the main clif is the rock on the far right,next to the creek.

Waipapa action

Porpoise Bay, dolphin watching. If you see one please let me know....

The awsome McClean Falls.

Some more moreki boulders..

Nugget Point..

One Sesaon in the Life of a Wok Chef....

Howdy folks, well it must be around 3-4 months since the last update but im sure you all know what im like with this by now.....so heres a run-down of what a first winter season has been filling my life with.

So as you know i scored a job as a wok chef at the noodle bar at the ski resort known as 'Cardrona'. With a shift rotation of 4 days on 2 days off you'd think alot of snowboarding was to be had for me over the last 3 months, unfortunatly not as much as what I would have liked (mainly due to weather, and little bit of lack of effort) but still a fair amount and I think a wee bit of improvement has been made on the board. So an average day up the hill would be, wake up at around 6:30ish get ready and then get aride with a fellow cardronian to town, to get a ride up the mountain with the staff vans. This was usually an uneventful/good time to catch some z's ride, however sometimes the road conditions were terrible but Cardrona is the mountain that only closes when only certain death is iminant. One particular ride coming down the mountain involved super icy,white out conditions and with a particularly reckless driver we spun out and was left in the van with its back side looking down the rocky drop of one of the corners! Brilliant.


Anyways, so assuming you have made it up the hill alive you then start your working day. For me this was working out what prep was to be done and prepping it. Chopping veg, making sauces, blanching noodles and meat (which was skanky as hell). Whilst at the same time taking full advantage of the barista girls and consuming a fair amount of coffee, also learning to barrista myself, which is something ive been wanting to know for some time. (making coffee right is alot harder than it looks).


And so then we would open. We started off super quiet not having many customers in these times we would go on ride breaks, trade food with other departments and various other not work type of things. But when it got busy it went manic, a shed load of wokking was to be done, luckily for cardrona they employed a samurai jedi wok master!! So that was an average working day for myself, the rest of the season was taken up by many a party, and of course climbing.


I got a little tired of snowboarding and focused alot on climbing but at that time of year both sports are tempermental mainly due to the weather. However I have found I am definatly more of a summer rock person than a winter snow person, dont get me wrong snowboarding is a super enjoyable sport and im guessing another winter season somewhere will happen, but over not to much contemplating I have come to the conclusion that Climbing is a much more superior sport.


And so heres the end of the season, with a large final party at the Crib and a few more nights out on the town its all over in Wanaka. It will be very sad to leave, espsecially seeing good friends go. But thats the way it goes, am very much looking forward to the summer months to come. I was planning on a few walks in the bush but thats been temporarily cancelled due to the track conditions so looks like theres only one thing to do....... that'l be more climbing (shame).





Untill the next time my friends, hope all is well, much love tom x

the noodle bar crew...

good times all the time in wanaka...

cribb fashion....

The return of agent Delta....

The back garden of my former workplace...

Anger management taken out on swedes.

Ninja training school...
Apres drinking amusement.....

We had absolutely nothing to do with the shopping trolley suspended above the ground.......

:-)

Getting ready for winter!

alright, super sorry once again for the slack effort im putting in on the blog. but this is a quick run down of whats been happening 12000 miles away from all of you!!!

Right so left the bay at the end of April with Nic, Ben, and a canadian guy who almost killed us from boredom, and steadily made our way down to wanaka, of course havin a wee stop off at castle hill for a session on the boulders for a couple of days. During this I made a side trip into Christchurch to catch up with some mates from hangdog, and a seriously heavy night followed involving myself persuading a bouncer to not kick me out of the bar for having fun (starting mosh pits is not cool!!!).

We got ourselves into wanaka, grabbed a few more guys we knew and started the house hunt. Which turned out to be an absolute mission! for about 2 months we looked around properties getting our hopes high then being let down. We stayed in numerous 'free camping' areas around the wanaka area keeping ourselves amused with firearms, explosives, and of course climbing (but mainly the former hehehe).

Finally we had some luck, on our usual wednesday mornings at the cafe hunting through the local rag we find an ad for a wee batch out on a motor camp up for grabs, no hesitations in calling. We got our viewing and left we positive feedback, and like all the other places now we just wait.....and it paid off, alright so now we have a house, next mission find a job as my card wont even let me buy a cookie!!!

Iv been going through quite a few jobs whilst being here, firstly picking grapes which sucked big time!!! although was paid off quite well with the vineyard giving us around 8 cases of beer and a place to stay for free!!! good times! I then done a little bit of labouring for a plumber, lagging pipes and what not, only a few days there. For a little while I helped set up stages for a home show in the local town hall, that was fun. After that came more vineyard work, this time pruning, truly soul destroying but it helps put the pennies in the pocket none the less. I helped out on the campsite chopping wood which was awsome, good honest work. I then managed to blag my way into one of the local ski resorts, which is where i remain, with a free lift pass and loads of discounts in town my non-existing chefing skills seem to be payiong off. At the moment im apparently a wok chef and work in the noodle bar at the Cradrona resort. Awsome!

Not too much riding going on at the moment, but the weather is bringing a nice layer of snow in, and a day out with all the folks at the house is on the cards tomorrow, cant wait..

Once again all is well on the hippy front my friends...

much love as always

t
xx

At the top off my last 27 completed in the bay. Alongside MR Happy Happens.

Just past the crux of Creative Confusion.

Bouldering at the hill.

The hill as beautiful as always.

Waiting for a house at one of our exclusive wasteland retreats.

Wax bombs past the time quite effectively.

And also brushing up on our sniper skills.

Wanaka rock...

Home sweet home, finally...

Welcome to the cribb..... Ithink nic is putting more house pics up on his facebook page so check em out....

sending mea culpa, as always unprepared for the expected!!

heh all!!!hope all is well your way, once again another delayed entry, but better late than never!so whats been happening in the bay? i guess most of you will have received an email of my climbing exploits and naked bike riding, so heres a little more since then.....You would of never of guessed but a shit load more climbing has been taking place, 2 projects completed one being 'Daves Arete'(25 7b-ish), an imtimidating line with a large run out at the top where should you take the fall it will be of around 5 metres airtime and the nearby pine tree stroking you as you descend, of course i took this fall but soon got the climb after about 4 attempts, one of my favourite climbs here. But my huge achievment of paynes is 'Mea Culpa' (27 7c).Latin for 'forgive me' the hardest and most full on climb i have ever taken on, leaving my quick draws and natual pro in it for about 2 weeks with around 10 attempts i finally got it on Tueaday the 8th of Aprill.Heres the boring bit for non climbers, this is probably more for me than for anyone else......(dont read if you want the onsight)Starting off to get to the first bolt sits you on a great deep jug to clip then move onto a 3 finger pocket, moving up to deep crack for a right hand-jam, pulling through with the left and clipping, this is the last rest for the next 3 bolts. A huge right hand side pull into a 3 finger vertical slot to rock over to the next clipping hold a not so great blocky sloper, once clipped and sorted the feet out, move up to a left hand crimpy pinch, then onto a crimp for the right, pop up to a horrible slopery horn, placing the right foot high then grope for a tiny finger crimp. Next is the 4th clipping hold a sloper with a tiny dimple to pinch, desperatly clip then come over wide for a fairly decent 'ledge' go through to a high crimp then place your feet high to grab the 3 finger nail side pull, crank through to good a hold out right then come back through for the 2 finger side pull crimp, then onto a jug to clip the 5th bolt, the rest is cruisey. Pull up on some easyish holds for an awsome rest in a huge flake where 2 cams protect your fall. pull through to a terrible crimp to a hold that leads you to the beautifull anchor, where pure ecstacy is flowing through your body, the feeling is truly indescribable, climbing a line so precise and stunning. For a long time after you are just content with everything, absolutly awsome!!!Sorry about all that but heh thats what im here for!In other news, some rock embedded in forrest on the way to pohara has caught many a climbers eye. 10 years ago this rock was 'bolted' and around 6-7 lines were formed and the Peanut Slab was its name an area of limstone rock consisting of 3 stunning slabs split by forest. Public got restricted access to this area due to an incident involving a dog and one of the farmers live stock, and the area has not to our knowledge been climbed since.Present day, 4 climbing bums see a slab and get permission by said farmer and go about on an expedition, let the mission begin!!!At around mid-day myself, ben and borg meet at the bunkhouse in camp, we gear up and ride out to the peanut slab, Borg having been here before a couple of days previous (but never getting up the last slab) guided us through the farmers hill and into the forest, with a couple of small caves to crawl through and trees to climb up we arrive at the first slab, Borg pointed out the line they prviously went up, however after spying out another line to the left I was super keen to get roped up and lead up it. Again a wee scramble up a tree to get over the bulge and clip the first and only bolt, I break off left cleaning moss off possible foot holds as I go and get to the first nut, there are no bolts on this slab the only protection is rusty nuts that have been drilled in, leaving us with 2 options affix a carrot bolt over the top (of which we only had 2) or attach a wire over the top and tightening it with a nut head and clipping that. The former seemed a much safer call, I lead up and past the second and then it all goes a bit hairy a super long run out to the next i gingerly work my feet up whilst testing loose rock with my hands and pulling off half the rock face, not quite trusting anything i grab onto the next bolt pinching the balls out of it and attaching my next bit of gear,moving onward a serious lack of feet and hand holds were incounted, after exausting all my climbing I see some faily strong looking weeds above me, grab hold of those and over the lip to fall into an abyss of berry bushes to set up an anchor. With no worries the others followed me up, and onto the next slab whilst admiring some of the best views of golden bay from the ledge.Borg tackled the next one, with a funny moment of Borg talking to himself (in between filling his pants, as we all did) of 'just stand up Borg, just stand up'. This is just before a ballsy dynamic move to finish. Borg set up the anchor then Ben led up and i followed on second. To get to the third slab and now we saw why the others hadnt made it up there......Ontop of the second leads to a 4-5 metre drop and then the slab but of course with a huge bulge to stop you getting onto it. However determined to get up it we spy out a possibillity. Abot 8 metres away right on the lip of the bulge is a bolt, Ben traversed across and i then followed. Ben secured himself on to one rusty bolt, and being left with no choice i saftied onto the same, now getting over the bulge was the problem,.....no worries.I mantled up onto Bens leg whilst pulling on my safety line and scraped myself onto the slab. Now regretting the choice to lead it first. All starting off well, actually good foot holds and nicely placed bolts up until the 3rd.....this is where it got scary a large run out to the next bolt and no holds, I almost backed off but with no one else keen to lead it i had to push on, i eventually made it to the bolt and quickly put my gear in then pushed through to a tree where i attached a sling and geared up there. The next bit was aout 4 metres long and hillariously chossy. Everything i touched would either come off in large chunks or just crumble in my hands, in between shouting 'ROCK BELOW' etc i scrambled up this last pitch to come to a dead tree which had to be ripped out and various other rocks being thrown down below i set up an anchor and everyone took it in turns to do the last 'death pitch' an incredible view and sunset ended the adventure to leave me and Ben scrambling down in the dark with no head torch, classicly fullfilling the Hangdog way; being unprepared for the expected. OK so my time in the bay is nearly at an end hopefully will be updating you with adventures from down south in the next post.
untill the next time my friends......
tom
all the pics are abit scrambled but cant be bothered to sort it, any complaints please email my secretary at dontgivea****@hahaha.com

Not really any significance here, i just look like a bad-ass!!

The last few moves on a climb called 'Lost Soul' 21

Mea Culpa! moving past the 4th bolt.

That'll be the incredibly crap sloper to clip the 4th.
Moving just below the 3rd

Just above the 5th now coming up to the huge flakey rest
de-jah vou

Thats a guy called Tom, super stoked to have climbed Mea Culpa, at the anchors smiling away.......

Ben belaying the second pitch on the peanut slab

Just stand up Borg....
Chilling under the second pitch.

Views from the slab..

I love the smell of peanut slabs in the morning!@!

A hold?

Awsome protection!!!!

The 3rd and final pitch....... cue jaws theme or somethng just as sinister.....

1080 and the letter G.

Ok so once again quick thinking tom has become mega slack on the blog, and will no dought continue to be so, so future apoligies for that...
But anyways life is back to whatever normal maybe in the region of golden bay in new zealand. With an array of climbs being smashed by yours truly and an even higher number crushing me. But heres a few pics of the climb of paynes ford, 1080 and the letter G. A huge intimidating roof holding a number of bolts to get you through to the end. And of course with a cave halfway up a perfect photo op, with head rushing, adrenaline fueled bat hangs...... check it out guys,
i think the majority of my post will be on the short side, as errrm well yea ok im lazy.......
much love
tom
xx

Now coming onto the crux move (23)

Taking it easy on the huge holds...

WAAAAAHAAAAA

hanging on a thread pics........

Ok sorry for the delay guys but heres the pics to accompany the last blog entry, will work on the next entry over the next couple of days.......

On top of Takaka hill

Gearing up....

This is where the fun begins....

The balls start to shrink at about this point....
Thats me on the first ab.
Looking through bens crotch....
Quick thinking tom...
My abode for 7 hours
Hope flying over....
dont really know what to say here..........