Thank You Nacimiento!

And so after Peru the wind blows me back in the direction of Chile. A long and painful bus ride (due to treating myself to an english restaurant and then getting food poisoning) takes me to the fairly unpleasant town of Arica. Although past the smeg of the city resides beautiful beaches, a lovely welcoming hostal (sunny days-recomended) and the entrance to the impressive Lauca national park which homes many a llama, vicuña and huge snow capped volcanoes, 2 days or so was spent in Arica then back to San Pedro de Atacama.
I locate a note left for me by Weffa giving me directions on how to get to the Nacimiento Gorge and set about buying a bus ticket and purchasing food supplies for the trip. The bus however never showed up and apparently the next one was Thursday (today was Monday,i was not happy). I simply could not wait that long.
The next day plan B comenced. Asking in every tour agency if they could give me a ride to the gorge via a tour, this took sometime due to a. My spanish and b. The amount of tour agencies in San Pedro. However eventually i found an agency who accepted my plea.
The morning of the following day i jump on a mini bus who half way through the tour of the San Pedro salt flats (biggest salt flat in Chile and home to 3 out of the 5 species of flamengoes in the world) dropped me off at Nacimiento! I was so happy to be back here, although the remaining tourists didnt share my enthusiasm and probably thought i was crazy being left in the middle of now-where (if only they knew).
I then set about on the next mission- finding my friends in the middle of a dessert! I searched through the west side of the gorge and had no luck I then went on to tackle the east side (which was unfamillar to me) and continued my search. My thoughts were starting to turn, thinking that maybe they had already left when just over the next boulder I finally see some life. Once again reunited with climbing amigos! Weffa, Guillermo, and Leo. A good afternoon of bouldering, food and sleep swiftly followed.
8 awsome days of climbing was to be had, with only one rest day as this place had to taken advantage of. Within the first 2 days Leo and Guillermo left (as they along with Weffa had already been there a week) and left myself and Weffa, we tackled some killer lines of rock from grades of 6a to 7a+ along with a day of cleaning and getting first ascents of boulder problems. We left Nacimiento with some great climbs under our belts (I even managed a 7a onsight, well happy with that puppy!) and started for the long trek back to the nearest town of Socaire which is about 6km´s away. But luck was again on our side a tour bus was coming round the corner which just so happened to be the agency that Weffa worked for, natually we got a ride all the way back to San Pedro, its good to know you Weffa!!!!
An awsome party in San Pedro then on the bus back to Santiago, after 24 hours of semi-cama we arrive in Santiago and Weffa offers me a place to stay for the night, I gratefully accept his offer. Once again another killer party then a day of climbing back in Arrayan forrest with Christian, however only afew lines done as hang overs were kicking in nicely!!
And so all of that now leaves me back in my hostal awaiting my mexican friend to join me in an adventure down south....cant wait
Much love and peace to you all
tom

Some sea lion action at the harbour of Arica.

Dinner time!!

Beautifull sun sets on the beach.

Wild life in the national park.

I shamefully forget the name of this mountain.

Dust, my only friend...... (i hate you)
A nice cruisy 5c\6a
The crux of i think a 6b+, beautiful climb.


Huge Slacklines.


People of the Gorge.

More sun set action.


Killed by the 7a. (but heh, that rug really ties the gorge together).

Boulder time, about 30 seconds away from camp (my kind of walk in).

Fire Weffa!!!

The east side of the gorge.

And the west.......

THANK YOU NACIMIENTO!!!

In the Shadow of a Lost City

I arrive in Cusco late one Sunday night greeted with terrential rain wanting nothing more than a bed and shelter. Waking up and getting breakfast I decide to explore the ´cultural capital of south america´. Beautiful colonial buildings litter the streets, with action packed markets and random parades fill the atmosphere. Cusco on the surface is indeed beautiful, but scratch a little deeper my friends…..
Walking from one end of the plaza to the other (which takes about 3 minutes) you will undoughtedly be offered a library of various intoxicating substances by at least 3 or 4 different guys. One guy I met chatted to me in great detail about the cheapest way to get to Machu Picchu via busses and hiking and then slowly progressed onto taking me back to his flat- I swiftly moved on!!
After following up on his advice I found it just wasn’t possible for what I wanted to do. Instead I go the less adventurous route and take the train to the ancient city.
Located at 2350m, perched on the eastern slopes of the Vilcanota mountain range, there resides Machu Picchu- the last Inca city. Founded almost 100 years ago in 1911 by Hiram Bingham, covered in 300 year old trees that took around 5 years to clear and unearth the city, however ónly´ 70% is excavated there still resides another 30% of the city under foliage awaiting future archeoligists (you go Ve!!!).
Ok so after getting up pretty damn early I catch my ride to the train station and find my seat on the coach. The train starts off with a huge jolt as though another train has just gone into the back of it then starts running smoothly, then it stops and starts going backwards! On investigation I find out that the train runs on a zig-zagging line up and over Cusco, so many a time of stopping going forwards then backwards about 5-6 times until we get out of the valley. 3 hours of riding through caves, past rapid rivers, and alongside intimidating mountain ranges we arrive at our destination Machu Picchu village. A swarm of tourists trying to find there guides awaits at the station, and onto a 15 minute bus ride to get to the entrance of Machu Picchu.
I join my group of happy Gilmore tourists and enjoy a 1 hour tour of the city having explanations of the different temples, tiers, and living quarters etc. Really interesting history and a cool guide as well. Afterwards, we were given free time to just wander around at our own leisure until the arrival of the last train. This I really enjoyed just sitting on a ledge with like 2000m of air dangling below, contemplating this mighty Inca city, trying to block out all the screams and crys of neighbouring people.
You may have got the feeling this entry is not as enthusiastic as some previous and that’s because I just wasn’t as amazed with Machu Picchu as what I thought I would have been (maybe im the only one). Don’t get me wrong I recommend a visit but for me I feel the magic of this place has disappeared in time. I think my opinion may well be different if the inca trail or another trek was completed beforehand, this I still would love to do.
But anyway still an unforgettable experience, as always lovin it!!
Much love and peace…..
tom

Cusco, looks nice eh?
On the way to the city.

This photo needs Mr Bowie.

The lower tier, home of the less noble.

the Sacred rock, carved into the shape of the mountain range behind.

Wanapicchu. (on the right)
Yea yea

only 30% left to go, come on guys whats the hold up?
Once upon a time many of these trees resided here.

MACHU PICCHU!!

Dreamy Desserts and the Frontiers of Change

And so the story continues a 2 week vacation from climbing was to be had. With seriously killer hangovers from the night before myself and Jose were ready to go check out a couple of other countries. First stop Bolivia.
From San Pedro we jumped on the mini bus which took us through immigrations and connected us with our 4x4 jeep waiting at the Bolivian border, which is basically a shack at 4800m altitude in the middle of what seems to be now-where. Welcome to Bolivia!
We set off with our bags tied down to the roof of the jeep and begin our 3 day tour across the desserts. Accompanied by a few other nations- French (Steffanie), Korean (Sin and ……..?) and Bolivian (the driver) spirits were high (well mine and Jose´s were, France was worried about the cold and Korea was suffering from harsh altitude sickness). Bouncing around the jeep like jibber-jabbers on amphetamines with the blissful Spanish remixes of 80´s classics such as ´total eclipse of the heart´ we arrive at our first photogenic location – lagoona verde or the green lake amazingly enough its called that because its green! But seriously, the high volume of copper and various other minerals (again my Spanish fails me) gives the lake its green complexion. We drive on through more seemingly never-ending dessert landscape past some rocks that have some resemblance of Salvador Dahli´s art work, however we were so far away they just seemed like rocks that have a resemblance of far off rocks (a little disapointed with that stop). Anyway, onto the bubbling geysers, with thick clouds of steam and the ´sweet´ aroma of sulphur jutting out of little craters scattered across the floor. Then more 4x4 action and lunch, at what was to be our home for the night. A small collection of shelters in the dessert accompanied with cold winds and sinister llamas. Llamas are actually really sweet chilled out creatures, however conversation somehow led to the uncovering of a government experiment making a new race of super llamas which will eventually take over the world (think 28 days later but with llamas). Ok back to ´reality´, after lunch and siestas we had a short drive to lagoona Colorado, same deal as lagoona verde however this time red a really deep blood red (the plot thickens!) with a mass of bright pink flamingos littering the lake like fallen pink stars. This was the most beautiful lake of all we saw along this trip, really amazing and so full of life.
With the discovery of the jeeps aux output, only good music was to be listened to for the rest of our journey (80´s classics just doesn’t cut the mustard) and onto the lagoona Honda or the deep lake – its deep and it’s a lake, there you go! The next stop was one of my favourites, more Dahli rocks but this time up close and personal. Thousands of years of wind erosion create a stone monument more than worthy of the Tate Modern. Of course I had to inspect the bouldering capabilities, however only with my eyes as I believe this rock was more than just a boulder, also I believe that it would probably snap at the base with anymore excess weight and squash the subsequent climber (thus becoming even more worthy of the Tate Modern). A few more lakes followed packed with life from more flamingos, llamas and vicunas (a kind of llama but less hairy) and then the salt hotel- a hotel made of salt, its true!! The floor, the walls, the tables, chairs everything was made out of salt (I hear the pepper hotel is still under construction). We were the only occupants of the hotel, cattered with an awesome meal then after, the guide showed us a really hard hitting video about the life of a boy in Bolivia working to support his family and his own schooling- beautifully presented and so sad to see not just on the screen but for the next few days in the flesh. It amazes and deeply saddens me how one strip of land, a frontier or border can have such a dramatic impact on peoples lives.
The next and final day of the tour takes us to the salt flats of Uyni- the biggest salt flat in the world. Its here because once upon a time this part of the world was unde the sea and with the growth of the andes (which by the way is one of the youngest mountain ranges and is still growng) forms obviously mountains and therefore a ramp is created for the sea to run down and leave its salt(or something like that). The further we drive the less we see, only whiteness, everywhere, its like being in a dream. The sky is white with only a hint of blue and the ground a carpet of salt forming strange hexagonal patterns. A mystical place, and in what could be the middle an island (of earth) named Incahuasi translated roughly as Inca island, a bizarre land of rocks and cactus that just seem as though it shouldn’t really be there. After about another 20 minutes of driving the salt flats finish and the dreamy landscapes end.
We arrive in Uyni where we walk around the markets and the purchase of an almighty poncho takes place. We have food and some beers, say our farewells to Steff and arrange a bus to La Paz. This was the worst bus ride of my life, non stop pot holes restricting anykind of rest. Every now and again stopping to either help other vehicles that had broken down or stopping because we had broken down but eventually we made it.
Stumbling through the streets of La Paz to find a place to stay and straight away getting on with our 2 missions- sort out a visa for Jose and buy myself a camera, the former of the two proved most difficult for Jose. We spent the rest of the day wondering around the city continuously amused by the trigger happiness of the drivers horns. After a walk through the infamous witches markets where hanging carcus´ of llamas, skulls, many a talisman and potions reside we decided it time for food. After which a visit to an entertaining Jokers style Bolivian club.
Next day, without surprise more visa problems as the weekend was drawing nigh the embassy would not grant the documents for Jose until next week and so Jose would have to return to La Paz. We checked out and left our bags in storage, on return to the hostel to our dismay the building was closed and our bags locked inside (shit!). We soon found the reason why, a protest was being held by the street merchants. From what I can gather it was about the capital status being moved to another city and thus removing the tourist trade away from the merchants. However this was not your average protest more like a party was being held in the streets with fireworks and music.
We returned to the hostel a few hours later and luckily they had re-opened, grabbed our bags and paced to the bus station only to find no more busses were leaving were leaving to Copacabaña (a place which boasts the biggest lake at the higest altitude in south America, on the Peruvian and Bolivian border). Truly gutted, both of us not keen on spending another night in the city. Randomly I took a walk around the terminal and spotted a bus now leaving, with dodgey Spanish I manage to grab us a ride, awesome!
We were on our way for a couple of days of chilling by the lake front. And what a lake, you look at it and think it’s the sea, its just unimaginaly big! A nice session of slackline and a freezing boat ride to the island of the sun passed the days.
And so minus my Mexican amigo I venture off into Peru for a visit to some ancient city I hear a few people go to……

Thats the border.
lagoona verde.

Not much goin here.

Bubbling geysers

The llamas were no match for me!

The secret lair of the super llamas

Salavdor Sand.

Its all salt!!!

Bizzare salty island.

Dreamy whiteness

La Paz, check out the huge crag in the middle of the city!!

´Protest´.

The witches market.
Just chillin.

Island of the sun.
Lake Tikicaka

San Pedro de Ata-semi-cama

Once again another really boring blog entry, hope you enjoy guys!!
25 hours in semi-cama ´luxory´ on the Tur bus and finally I hit San Pedro de Atacama, the driest dessert in the world at an altitude of around 2500m above sea level. Fate mouldered me together with 3 other travelling folk 2 sweedish girls (I forget there names) and a Mexican named jose. We then set off into town to find a place to sleep which is no problem in the tourist haven of San Pedro.
Walking through the dusty streets curtained by simple but beautiful clay and mortar structures with a backdrop of the andes sharing borders with Argentina and Bolivia. I instantly fell in love with this town, despite a tour agency on almost along every street San Pedro holds its own modest and unique character with many a foreign language bouncing off the walls and the impeccable friendliness of the locals.
After a good sleep in the chosen hostel myself and Jose went on a sand boarding mission, not to keen on the tour option we hired out some push bikes and the most important ingredient 2 sand boards. We get directions to the nearest dunes and set off with water and a little supply of food. Inevitably getting lost on the way after realising we had forgotten the map! However soon found our bearings and entered valle de morte (death valley) namely because of the lack of life that resides here. We ride through a winding gorge reminiscent of Indiana Jones movies, getting stuck in the sand and eventually giving up and walking the rest of the way but to find some dunes worthy of testing out the sand boards.
Applying a ridiculous amount of candle wax to the bottom of the boards we manage to get some small runs in. For around 3 hours lots of laughs, sand in places you didn’t know even existed and many a photo was had, but here in lies the problem- DO NOT SAND BOARD WITH A CAMERA IN YOUR POCKET!! That’s right, somehow the sand god possessed my camera and brainwashed it into not working anymore, a slight downer but not all was lost as all the photos were saved on the card.
That evening I met my climbing contact – Weffa, an awesome chillean guy working in San Pedro whos kindness and friendliness continually shines. Weffa gave me a place to stay much cheaper than the hostel and great company. Unfortunatly another 2 weeks of work was on the cards for him so no long trips to the climbing (yet). Slackline and boulder training was the only option for now.
The next evening myself and Jose booked up a tour for the valle de luna (moon valley). We set off in the afternoon via mini bus and started off in valle de morte where the guide explained the history and landscape, then onto some walks through gorges and caves and then to the beautiful valle de luna where we soaked in a mighty sun set, set over huge sand dunes and jagged rock formations watching the colours fuel the atmosphere. An inspiring and thought provoking place spoilt only by the waves of tourists fully armed with cannons, Fujifilm, sony and what have yous, robbing the soul of this magical place(ok a little hypocritical but heh you know what I mean). On a return visit the hire of a bike will be the only option to avoid the swarms and stay for a longer time.
Once again I met up with Weffa and a plan was made, the next day we would climb at Nacimiento Gorge for the day, and so we did! Around about an hour and a half in the car armed with climbing equipment and 3 other local climbers from San Pedro we arrive at the gorge where approx 800 routes of sport climbing, traditional and bouldering resides, a true climbers paradise. This place has a kind of magnetic energy drawing you into a state of tranquillity and calmness, never have I been to such a place, a true high point of my trip.
Starting off on a nice 5.11 (6a) for the warm up and to get the leading head back on, then onto an amazing 5.11 (6c) starting on fairly thin holds then moving up to a series of diagonal ledges to a not so positive arête making the clip then moving left on a narley 3 finger crimp to grab the polished jug, a little bit of disco leg then to the anchor and a huge gulp of relief- a classic route completed with the flash. Next up anoher 5.11 but slightly harder, possibly 6c+ with balency moves and endurance on crimps, to cracks, to slopers, pockets and even a Thailand style tofa at the top, 2 attempts and I managed it clean. Last stop was a top roped 5.12 (7a) again another classic on thin inclining holds. On return to San Pedro food and bed was all that could be achieved.
After discussion with Weffa and Jose a plan was hatched for me to return to San Pedro in about 2 weeks time for a 2 week session at the gorge with Weffa. But what to do in 2 weeks? A trip through the bolivian salt flats then onto Peru for a visit to Machu Pichu with a Mexican, sounds like a fine plan to me…………
Untill the next time guys, chao!!!!

The charming San Pedro at dusk.
Oh yea, watch out for the mines!
Looking at where we should be.
Death Valley

Time for some sand board action.
Jose on the dunes.

Take the god damn camera out of your pocket man!!
Hippies on mars.

Moon Valley.
The impressive dune.

Look close to see the people walking across.
Sun set on the moon.