Friday, 31 August 2007

Good things come to those who wait.......

Heh everyone!! Time for another entry and what a killer 2 weeks it has been since Portillo, its hard to beleive already a month has flown by, and so, this is what has been floating my boat;
On arrival back into Santiago I met up with some Chilean friends I made back in Portillo, who gave me the insider info on places in Santiago, showed me around and even invited me back to there house for a meal and drinks! 3 days of Santiago and then I had to go and check out how to get to the most important aspect of this trip, oh yea, the climbing man!!!
All packed up and ready to go with food and camp supplys, trekking through the Santiago underground with a seriously heavy pack to get to the estacion central then onto the bus terminal, one way ticket to Las Chilcas please!!! About an hour on the coach then the bus stops and this guy ushers me off I collect my bags, and the bus roars off leaving me in a cloud of dust and exaust fumes to find im in the middle of nowwhere!! My first thought was how the hell am I gonna get back,my second thought was holy shit look at those crags!!!!!
After setting up camp in a not so desirable area (near to the road and on hard ground) I took a stroll around mouth dragging on the ground looking at these awsome lines, but something was missing, where are all the climbers? and so Wednesday passed-no climbers, Thursday- no climbers, Friday-a small boulder session on uninspiring rock then by the afternoon HOLA! there be some climbers, conversation was small due to my awsome linguistic skills, but none the less afew climbs in the bag. They then showed me a much nicer area to camp as aparently its unsafe to be so close to the crags on a weekend due to people who like to see you climb then steal your things.
Anyway woke up Saturday and my new amigos had gone and left behind 4 other people who then became my new climbing partners they helped me with my spanish and I with there English, an excellent day of climbing followed, lots of hard routes attempted and mostly failed but heh all good training. There be not many easy routes in this place Chileans dont mess around when it comes to this climbing game. In the evening followed a fire and food to be shared by all.
Sunday once again another beautifull day of climbing but only a few routes done as a warm up on a 7a (the hardest grade i climbed back in new zealand) really took its toll on a guy who hasnt climbed in a month or so.The sun goes down and time to catch the bus back, (you just have to wave the bus down on the busy road). One of my fellow climbers named Christian offered to put me up for a few days at his place as he lived in the mountains with so much rock around teasing him to climb but with no partner. It didnt take me long to decide.
Christian and his family welcomed me in to there home, fed and gave me shelter for 5 days, truly amazing people I am forever grateful and in their debt (muchos gracias). For 4 days Christian showed me a new area to climb each day weather it be sport routes with a backdrop of the snowcaped mountains or bouldering infront of a fierce river, always top quality climbs and together with Christian great company.
PURA VIDA!!!!!
If you are interested this is a website created by Christian about all the climbs in the Cajon Del Maipo area where he lives and we climbed (im on there with a couple of first ascents woohooa)
Pura Vida!!!

Las Chilcas.

Probably the nicest part of Santiago I have seen, my hostel is right behind me.


Camp area numero uno, many a restless night.


Dani climbing hard.
This is the really hardcore wall, with a 2meter incline and routes at around 20m in height.


Sunset at Las Chilcas.

Christians pad.


So close to the on-sight, really beautiful bouldering on the first day at Cajon Del Maipo.

PURA VIDA!!


Christian cranking his way up.

The first day of routes.


This is Chile.

Whats what?


New boulders, new problems. SIC!
A view from the bouldering.








Monday, 20 August 2007

Party in Portillo

So after an insane amount of flying through the clouds i hit south american soil, a very brief stop over at Sao Paulo, then onto Buenos Aires for the exchange to Santiago. Breath taking views flying over the andes to a smooth landing in this countrys capital.
Lets get this travelling game started!!!
So an awsome little spoonful of luxory at the Hotel Atton, where jet lag is kicking in but easily defused with the discovery of Kunstmann - a dark ale type beverage, a couple of those puppies and off to bed ready to be picked up in the morning by portillo transport.
102 miles from santiago and around about 2 and a half hours driving through flat cactus ridden shrubland then onto intimidating gorges and valleys up and up and up on snake like road to an altitude of 2880m to a resort nestled in the longest mountain range in the southern hemisphere....... You got it Portillo!!!
What a place to start any trip, after checking in i make my way to my home for the next 2 weeks, the cosy (ish) Inca lodge, which of course is the cheapest option and full of like minded people who just wanna cruise on thoses beautiful slopes surrounding us.
And so, a typical day in Portillo would be drag yourself out of bed, usually with a killer hangover and grab some breakfast.Meet friends, decide what slopes to ride, gear up, get ya board and get your arse on one of those chair lifts! Some of thoses chair lifts are so scary one time i thought i was clear at the top and the next thing i know im on the ground with a killer head ache as the chair had swung round and taken me out, thoses things take no prisoners!!! Also there are these unique lifts called puma lifts(or somethinglike that) which are basically a row of 5 t bars which you put in between your legs and catterpult you to the top of some of the more intense slopes, these slingshot lifts are the scariest things i have ever experienced, it satred ok then got faster and faster then once at the top a huge sigh of releif and lots of laughter from fellow newbies whos balls had also shrunk!!
At around 5 oclock the lifts will close and its time for some afternoon tea (and a biscuit) swiftly followed by a hot tub session and then maybe a sauna or a movie-whatever takes ya fancy. After a good evening meal its time to get ready for a serious evening of abusing the liver. In the hotel it tended to be mega expensive so just across the road there laid a pub which had beers at around 60p each- this was taken full advantage of, and also delving into the local drink of pisco sour- a potent brandy type liquer which is best mixed with sprite. Many a night will end at the disco for bizarre dance moves and eventually getting back to the Inca for about 4-5am.
Throughout Portillo I have met some truly amazing people of which will never be forgotten, there friendships and genorosity have left me humbled and honoured to meet such fine folks much love and peace to you all.
Hope this little entry is enjoyed by you folks back home, its hard to put those 2 weeks in to words other than AWSOME!!!
Flying over the Andes
So many people would call me bob marley, this joke wore thin.....

getting to portillo on snake like roads


The big yellow blob is the main hotel just infront is the inca lodge(to the right)



looking out of my front door

its time for some riding


Waking up to this never gets dull. The middle is actually a lake which is frozen over

Good times with Escudo and friends

The first week of great friends

This is who the brittish do it!!! (sorry Glen but this is just priceless)



Paul pulling some grabs


Chantel, Dusty,Dani,Paul great friends awsome times


Our last night, alcohol craziness













Wednesday, 1 August 2007

Beautiful Times, Beautiful Friends.........

Alrighty guys, blog post numero uno!!! Yet again another awsome party at the fleece, a massively huge thank you to all you guys who showed up, it really meant alot. That night will never be forgotten!
So im off tomorow, catching a late flight from Heathrow and then onto Santiago for some more unforgettable times, cheers again guys ill keep you all updated as much as possible via the blog and the odd email.
much love and peace to you all, Tom x

sorry about the blurred pics, i beleive alcohol is the culprit
A blurred Mr Downie
Some pool action

Coleman!!! cheers for the cd bro, youll be missed man
Rock on, i love this photo


outdoor in the fresh smoky air
heh man it seems you have a little rash on ya chin.... hahaha
danni n tristan
the rash doesnt seem contagious
Take it easy bro, look forward to seein tilli in a few years!!



the ol man, enjoying a beverage to quench ones first
CRIMINALS! wud wud
awsome to see ya franco, tim u seem to have shrunk




a beautiful fleece style circle party





Groovin Slowly






beautiful times








SEE YA GUYS LOVE YOU ALL
PEACE
TOM
XXXX